lucy.davies@thecpconcept.co.uk
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AW21 Lookbook
Mithridate’s Autumn Winter 2021 collection, ‘Automatiste’, is a profoundly personal response from founder and creative director Demon Zhang to her experience of the restrictive conditions of 2020.
Throughout the months of isolation and uncertainty in Guangzhou, Zhang plumbed her subconscious for inspiration, embarking on a journey to discover her inner-self at a time when travel and external exploration were out of the question.
Automatiste, named after the Surrealist method of suppressing conscious control over the art-making process to give the unconscious mind greater influence in creating, is a deeply personal representation of Zhang’s experience of the restrictive conditions of 2020.
As the Covid-19 pandemic continues to reshape the way we live, work, create and connect, the traditional fashion show format has had to evolve and hybridise in order to engage press, buyers and consumers alike. For autumn/winter 2021, Guangzhou-based Central Saint Martins graduate Zhang has embraced the possibilities presented by this new fashion landscape.
In a process akin to the Automatism method, used by the Surrealists to suppress conscious control over creativity and allow the unconscious mind greater influence, Zhang looked to her inner world, exploring the maelstrom of her inner thoughts. What she witnessed was a transmutative psychological journey, from the vulnerability of confronting fraught memories to the ensuing impulse to cocoon herself and form a protective shell to allow for a personal metamorphosis to authenticity.
Zhang’s creative vision for Mithridate is similarly therapeutic: to provide a sartorial prophylactic to those who continually explore and express their identities through their clothes. Zhang is constantly inspired by multi-sensory art-forms, born of countless hours of research as a fashion student.
Digital Interpretation of Mithridate’s Anthropocene
Mithridate’s SS21 collection entitled ‘Anthropocene’ was digitally brought to life in a recent shoot in Dover.
The collection focuses on the fragility, vulnerability, and beauty of our world’s life forms, threatened by the Anthropocene era of unprecedented human impact on the environment and planet, represented through three key stories; ‘ Oceanic, ‘Humanity’ and ‘Wild Landscape’.
The set stylist Karen Binns, who also styled the LFW Serpentine Gallery shoot, stated; “The Mithridate collection for ss21 explores the nature around us, it takes us on a journey to redefine our dreams and through different genres of our daily life… from recycled fatigue fabrics to chiffon, it allows you to move between your masculine and feminine self.”
Oceanic:
The Oceanic collection features faded blues and whites, deeply inspired by the indirect harm Man has implemented on our Oceans, causing suffering to the fish and the bleaching of the delicate coral that was once full of vibrancy and life. Zhang focused on the intricate textures of our oceans which can be seen through contrasting layers of embroidery, lace and flowing asymmetric shapes.
Humanity:
The Humanity range captures nature in spring when left untouched: full of vibrant, joyous colour, rich floral smells and thriving wildlife. Zhang focuses on the patterns and embroidery of wild animals and flowers, pastel shades offset with bold blacks, browns and yellows, alongside the metallic brilliance of insect shells and wings incorporated through glittering embellishments and beaded embroidery.
Wild Landscape:
The Wild Landscape collection features gold detailing, structured shapes and rich greens with a captivating illustration of the “Airplane Graveyard,” located within an inaccessible forest near Moscow, Russia. Demonstrating the power of nature when undisturbed by man, growing trees have swallowed up the wings and persistent weather has exposed the remnants of machinery to become the bones of the forest.
Location:
The location was a strategic decision to highlight the diversity and sublime nature of our environment whilst showcasing the desperation for change as the human race balances on the cliff edge, the point of no return, over the exploitation of the natural world. The collection was shot across the five mile stretch of the Kent coastline, amongst the greenery and rocks and upon the chalk cliffs overlooking the ocean.
Not only is the location a magnificent backdrop, but also a symbolic ode to the history and strength emitted from the cliffs. The intimidating cliff wall worked as a protective barrier from intruders for centuries and houses many intricate tunnel systems used in various wars. But the Cliffs of Dover for many represent peace and new beginnings as it is often the first landmark seen when arriving in Britain and is the first place in the country to welcome the rising sun and New Year. This symbolism plays on the Anthropocene theme through its plea for change and the hope to harmoniously coexist with nature in the future.
Photographer: Aleksandra Klicka
Videographer: Daniel Sims
Stylist: Karen Binns
Hair: Johanna Cree-Brown/Gary Represents
Make Up: Emma Miles
Models: Emigdielys Samaniego & Harry Westcott
Casting: Emma Somper/Gary Represents
Production: Blonstein Productions
Creative Direction: CP Concept
GIRLSBOYSGODS
ABOUT
Meet GIRLSBOYSGODS; Paige Doe & Hugo Malien, the duo behind the Art, Styling & Creative Projects team.
Paige: We are is a small team of 2 – me and my partner Hugo. We both studied Fine Art at Central Saint Martins nearly a year ago now. We actually only met on the last day, during the set-up of our graduation show (!) Since then we’ve worked together on a number of personal projects, from producing and selling art -to- renovating vintage furniture for our home studio. We’ve always been active with our creativity, so it was a natural progression to start introducing ourselves to other creatives, typically designers, in hopes to collaborate.
What was the creative process behind conceptualising this shoot?
Paige : I think it’s safe to say we both instantly fell in love with Mithridate’s collection, so we really wanted our vision to match our affection. In doing so, we ended up mood-boarding a few different ideas until the right one manifested; throughout our creative process we attempted to mirror many of Mithridate’s already-existing themes … almost as if we were entering a gallery full of art, and figuring out how our work could be included.
Hugo : Whenever we work with a designer we really try to compliment their style against our own ‘signature’. In a lot of our work, we tend to focus on small and fine details which I think Mithridate also captures upon fabric. It was almost like completing the process backwards, starting with cropped images of selected pieces (from Mithridate) and building a narrative from there.
What made you choose the location, model, theme etc?
Paige : We took a large amount of influence from a selection of images from Mithridates recent runway show, ‘Where art meets fashion’; We wanted to adopt the same goose-bump like feeling, so we opted for locations that suggested this similar balance of strength and tenderness. The traditional dance studio highlighted the idea of growth and perseverance, and the second location, the classical architecture from one of London’s infamous national parks, for its clear romanticism.
Hugo : We wanted to capture Mithridates ‘Muse’ as well as we possibly could. Kelly, who we had worked with before, seemed like the perfect fit. She encapsulated a well-defined image of strength and femininity. Implementing themes just naturally fell into place after this.
How were you able to translate Mithridate, as a brand, artistically?
Hugo : The AW20 collection speaks for itself … We’re really excited to see upcoming work for seasons to come … We believe Mithridate has such a strong identity, that it would be hard not to encapsulate what they really stand for in our own work. Given the amount of trust and freedom we were granted, it’s incredibly rewarding seeing our own artistic expression entwined with that of Mithridates.
How did you find the AW20 pieces from Mithridate’s collection?
Paige : The craftsmanship of Mithridate’s collection is beyond anything I’ve ever seen. There is a clear attention to detail, with an ever-so-romantic nod to delicacy and care. I don’t think true pleasing design comes around that often, so there is an enormous amount of pride knowing we’ve had the pleasure to collaborate with such an honorable brand.
Hugo : Just so beautiful, like wearable art. There really are no other words. Given the opportunity, we would be honoured to handle and work with such charming pieces again.
Paige & Hugo: @girlsboysgods
Model: @kel_king
SS20 Campaign
Chinese Fashion House MITHRIDATE is pleased to announce its second collection, made up of three distinct creation areas; bringing its disruptive industry acumen and unique fashion ability to summer dressing for the first time.
Each piece in the collection has been lovingly designed using founder Demon Zhang’s knowledge of couture detailing, fused into a ready to wear collection: a staple of the brands DNA.
The word MITHRIDATE is, like Demon’s designs; full of mystery and magic. Named after the King who discovered a cure to fight all poisons, Demon wants to provide a cure for women who are continually exploring their identity through their clothing.
Demon’s design language, spoken through MITHRIDATE is a balance between romance, self-awareness and the outside world. The relationship between all three fascinates her as a designer and continues to inspire her. For Demon, beauty isn’t one factor; but short moments that exist in a constant state of change. It is her mission to capture that moment and present it to her audience.
Demon Zhang, brand founder comments:
“I’m really excited about how the brand and collection continues to grow, hence the three distinctive areas for SS20. We want to show at MITHRIDATE that you can take what might be considered traditional – and give it the MITHRIDATE twist and showcase a whole new way of dressing, even for summer!”
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SS20 Lookbook
MITHRIDATE is pleased to announce its second collection, made up of three distinct creation areas; bringing its disruptive industry acumen and unique fashion ability to summer dressing for the first time.
UNIFORM x VINTAGE
Pulling from historically traditional military looks, the collection brings the aesthetic firmly into the future with a vintage and elegant twist; with specific additions to silhouette the female form. Navy is the colour way of choice here, with bold white marking and detailing further helping define a sensual look yet with a masculine echo.
DISRUPTIVE DENIM
Taking one of the world’s most traditional fabrics: and creating disruptive pieces, which showcase a whole new meaning to the concept of denim wearing.
Heavily detailed jackets layered with other denim wardrobe essentials, which contain a variety of fabric mixing techniques and asymmetric designs to create a bold, rebellious look. The use of rose gold thread and pearl detailing throughout the denim line also creates a transcendent luxury look for the daytime urban girl, which can easily transfer to evening.
SUMMER HOLIDAY
Inspired by the traditional English summer holiday: clothing that feels like fresh air; with immaculately tailored white pieces that feel surprisingly relaxed, alongside beautiful floral designs using traditional Chinese techniques. Clean summer dressing , yet with a Mithridate twist.
Each piece in the collection has been lovingly designed using founder Demon Zhang’s knowledge of couture detailing, fused into a ready to wear collection: a staple of the brands DNA.
AW20 Campaign
The Autumn Winter 2020 collection is Mithridate’s third. The brand’s founder, Demon Zhang, drew inspiration from the V&A while studying at Central St Martins; the collection pays homage to the art and architecture of this iconic museum.
Shot by Filip Koludrovic on location at London’s iconic Leighton House Museum.
